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Subject:  Correct fastener to mount SS trim onto a cabinet

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One of the granite guys (guest)
07/07/2007 8:34 PM Alert 
We are installing 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" solid surface bullnose trim to the front of pre-finished cabinets ~300 lin ft. We have access to the back side of the cabinet. In the ISSFA training class they recommended a brass insert with screw. Haven't been able to locate the inserts. Anyone know where we can buy these?

By the way.. hands down the best, most informative class I've ever attended. Thanks Bill and Mike!

Chris
Houston

Jon Olson
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Posts:189
07/08/2007 4:43 AM Alert 
Hey Chris I don’t like the brass inserts. They can fatigue over time. We use the squirrel. Here is a link.

http://www.mcdmarketing.co.uk/Corian/seg/Squirrels/index.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sterlingsurfaces/

Dani Homrich
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Posts:11
07/08/2007 3:07 PM Alert 
Chris,

With 300 ft to do this is how I would do it. I would cut a slot in the back of the Bullnose for Biscuits / Splines and use a Biscuit Joiner on the cabinets and cut a slot about every foot or so. Glue the splines in with wood glue and use silicone and a little hot melt to attach the Bullnose over the splines on the cabinets. Much faster that trying to line up holes and screws.

Dani
Changing the way you finish your decks.
http://dani-designs.com
One of the granite guys (guest)
07/08/2007 3:59 PM Alert 
Thanks for the comments! I'm sure one or a combination of these applications will work.
Chris

David P. George
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Posts:66
09/03/2007 2:36 PM Alert 
Chris, would not recommend the brass inserts for this specific application, but if you're ever looking for them, we stock them. Dave
WWW.YOURFESTOOL.COM
WWW.TOOLS4GRANITE.COM
WWW.TOOLS4SOLIDSURFACE.COM
one of the granite guys (guest)
10/11/2007 7:51 PM Alert 

Update...

We chose biscuits for mounting our trim and it is working nicely. I fabricated a jig that centers the biscuits exactly which allows the trim to fit perfectly straight. We are doing the project in stages, next time I go up I'll take pics and post em. The only problem we are having is joining the sections together (some are > 30 ft long and curved) and making them appear seamless has been a bit of a challenge. We are also a bit concerned with expansion and contraction of the material.

Thanks

Chris

Jon Olson
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Posts:189
10/12/2007 1:10 PM Alert 
Hello Chris. Glad it worked out. Yes post some pictures. If you need help posting let me know. What do you think is causing the parts not to line up at the seam?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sterlingsurfaces/

Dani Homrich
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Posts:11
10/13/2007 10:16 AM Alert 
Chris,

You should allow for expansion at the joints, use a translucent silicone to match the material like Axiom 25. Leave your space at the joint, don't fill the whole void just the surface. This will allow your trim to move. If you don't allow for some expansion your molding will start to pop off in the middle, I know, because I have been there before with a similar job at a Hotel.

Dani
Changing the way you finish your decks.
http://dani-designs.com
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